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Mounting a bathtub isn't precisely brain surgery, yet it does require strong plumbing, woodworking, and in some cases, tiling abilities. Changing an old bathtub with a new one is likewise a reasonably difficult job. If the old tub is easily easily accessible, the task can move rapidly; if you need to open up a wall to remove the old bathtub and also place the new bathtub, the task is a lot harder. In either instance, the task is within a home handyman's skills, although you will need an assistant to vacate the old bathtub and also embeded in the new one. Ensure you have qualified yourself for the work and also are comfortable attempting it. Instead of working with a contractor to take control of a halfway-completed project, it is better to consider employing one before you begin. Possibilities are you might require a specialist plumber to make tube links.
This write-up will certainly aid you mount a brand-new bathtub in your bathroom if you have currently purchased a brand-new bathtub and don't need to alter the arrangement of your previous supply of water pipes.
Your tools and material checklist should comprise the following:
Removing Old Taps
If you require to change old taps with new ones as a part of your installation, then the first thing you should do is disconnect the water supply. After doing so, switch on the taps to drain any water remaining in the system. The procedure of getting rid of the existing faucets can be rather problematic due to the limited accessibility that is frequently the case.
Make use of a container wrench (crowsfoot spanner) or a faucet tool to undo the nut that attaches the supply pipelines to the taps. Have a towel prepared for the staying water that will originate from the pipes. When the supply pipes have been gotten rid of, utilize the same device to loosen up the nut that holds the taps onto the bath/basin. You will require to quit the single faucets from transforming during this procedure. When the faucets have been eliminated, the holes in the bath/basin will need to be cleaned up of any old securing compound.
Prior to going on to fit the new taps, contrast the pipe connections on the old faucets to the new faucets. If the old faucets are longer than the new faucets, then a shank adapter is required for the brand-new taps to fit.
Fitting New Touches
If the tails of the brand-new taps are plastic, after that you will certainly need a plastic adapter to avoid damage to the string. One end of the connector fits on the plastic tail of the faucet as well as the various other end supplies a connection to the current supply pipes.
If you need to fit a monobloc, after that you will call for decreasing couplers, which attaches the 10mm pipe of the monobloc to the typical 15mm supply pipe.
Next off, position the faucet in the mounting opening in the bath/basin ensuring that the washing machines are in area between the faucet and the sink. Protect the tap in position with the manufacturer supplied backnut. Once the faucet is securely in place, the supply pipelines can be linked to the tails of the faucets. The taps can either be attached by using corrugated copper piping or with typical faucet ports. The previous type must be connected to the faucet ends initially, tightening only by hand. The supply pipes can later be attached to the various other end. Tighten both ends with a spanner after both ends have been attached.
Mounting the Bathtub
Utilizing both wood boards under its feet, place the tub in the needed placement. The wood boards are helpful in uniformly spreading out the weight of the bath tub over the area of the boards instead of concentrating all the weight onto four small points.
The following objective is to ensure that the bathtub is leveled all round. This can be attained by checking the spirit level as well as changing the feet on the bath tub till the level reads level.
To install taps, fit the bottom of the outermost versatile faucet adapter to the ideal supply pipeline by making a compression sign up with; then do the same for the other tap.
Switch on the water and check all joints and new pipework for leaks as well as tighten them if needed. Fill up the bath tub as well as additionally examine the overflow electrical outlet and also the regular electrical outlet for leakages.
Ultimately, fix the bathroom paneling as described in the manufacturer's instruction manual. Tiling and sealing around the bath tub needs to wait till the bath tub has actually been made use of a minimum of once as this will resolve it right into its last placement.
Planning for the Setup
To start with, the sustaining structure supplied with the bath should be fitted (if called for) according to the maker's directions. Next, fit the faucets or mixer to the tub. When fitting the tap block, it is necessary to make certain that if the tap features a plastic washer, it is fitted between the bath and also the faucets. On a plastic bathroom, it is additionally practical to fit a supporting plate under the taps unit to stop stress on the tub.
Fit the flexible tap connectors to the bottom of both faucets utilizing 2 nuts and olives (occasionally provided with the tub). Fit the plug-hole outlet by smearing mastic filler round the sink electrical outlet opening, and after that pass the outlet via the hole in the bathroom. Use the nut supplied by the supplier to fit the plug-hole. Take a look at the plug-hole outlet for an inlet on the side for the overflow pipeline.
Next off, fit the end of the adaptable overflow pipe to the overflow electrical outlet. After that, screw the pipe to the overflow face which need to be fitted inside the bath. Make sure you make use of all of the provided washers.
Link the trap to the bottom of the waste outlet on the tub by winding the string of the waste outlet with silicone mastic or PTFE tape, and also screw on the catch to the electrical outlet. Link all-time low of the overflow tube in a similar manner.The bathroom ought to currently be ready to be fitted in its last setting.
Tiling Around the Bathtub
In the location where the bath fulfills the ceramic tile, it is necessary to secure the joins with a silicone rubber caulking. This is necessary as the fitting can relocate sufficient to split a rigid seal, triggering the water to penetrate the wall surface between the bathroom and the tiling, bring about problems with wetness and feasible leaks to the ceiling listed below.
You can choose from a range of coloured sealants to blend in your components and installations. They are sold in tubes and also cartridges, and are capable of securing spaces approximately a size of 3mm (1/8 inch). If you have a larger space to fill, you can fill it with spins of soaked paper or soft rope. Remember to constantly fill the tub with water before securing, to allow for the motion experienced when the tub is in usage. The sealant can fracture relatively very early if you do not consider this activity before securing.
Alternatively, ceramic coving or quadrant ceramic tiles can be utilized to border the bath or shower tray. Plastic strips of coving, which are easy to use and also cut to dimension, are additionally quickly readily available on the marketplace. It is advisable to fit the ceramic tiles using water-resistant or water-proof adhesive as well as cement.
How to Install or Replace a Bathtub
Find Your Dimensions
The first step in any bathtub installation or replacement is to select the right size tub for your bathroom. Start by measuring your existing bathtub’s alcove from wall to wall. The standard size for bathtubs is around 5 feet long and 30 or 32 inches wide. Purchase the size that’s closest to your previous tub.
After you’ve measured, you’ll need to figure out what type of tub you need. Face the alcove. If the drain is on the right-hand side, you’ll need a right drain tub. If it’s on the left, get a left drain tub. Easy enough, right?
Disconnect the Water Supply and Drain Assembly
Before you can start on your removal, make sure that you turn off the tub’s water supply. Some bathrooms have a shutoff valve, but if you don’t see one, you’ll need to turn off the supply at your house’s water main. Once the water’s off, open the valves to release any remaining air in the supply lines.
Then, disconnect the tub drain flange. This process varies based on the type of drain you have, but in most cases, you’ll need a drain flange removal tool to perform this task. If you’re feeling handy, you might be able to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to twist and pull the flange.
Now comes the fun part. In order to disconnect the drain assembly, you’ll need to be able to get to the space underneath the tub. You might need to access the tub drain from a crawlspace or a basement. Don’t forget to take a pipe wrench with you, as you’ll need it to loosen the pipe at the connection.
Cut Out the Old Tub
After removing the drainpipe assembly, you can take out the old bathtub. Cut a strip above the tub edge in the wall surrounding the bathtub that's about 6 inches in height. The tools you need here may vary depending on the type of wall surround you have in the alcove. If you’re cutting drywall, use a drywall saw and remove the section of the wall all the way down to the studs. If you have tile, you’ll need to use a grinder with a diamond blade to cut through the grout line. Then, use a chisel to remove the individual tiles. Take care here not to cut through any studs.
Find the tub flange. Remove the screws that attach the flange to the studs in the wall. At this point, the tub should be freed from the wall.
Once you’ve removed the flange, use a utility knife to cut away the caulk between the tub and the floor. When this is done, you should be able to lift the tub up and out of the alcove. Keep in mind that, depending on what it’s made of, the old tub could be tremendously heavy. You should plan to have a friend help you move it just in case.
Install the New Tub
Before you make any adjustments to the area, place the new tub in the alcove to make sure it fits properly and that the tub drain lines up with the P-trap underneath the floor.
Remove it and install a 2 x 4 ledger board. Measure the tub’s flange, then mark that height on the wall. Screw the ledger board to studs in the wall. This will help to support the weight of the tub.
Once the ledger board has been installed, go ahead and secure the drain to the tub. For this step, you’ll need some plumber’s putty. Roll a small amount of putty in your hands and wrap it around the underside of the drain flange. Push the drain into the tub from underneath the tub.
When the drain has been attached, connect the overflow drain. To do this, you’ll place the gasket on the overflow elbow and move it behind the tub. Once that’s on, connect the overflow pipe and the drainpipe, but take care not to overtighten.
Secure the Tub
After the connections are in, it’s time to set the tub in place. Before you start, make sure the flange lines up with the markings you made in Step 4. Because the ledger board holds the tub in place, it’s important that it matches up. If not, you’ll need to remove it and readjust.
Once your measurements line up, attach the flange to the studs on all three sides of the wall. Please note that you should not screw the flange to the wall. Instead, you should use roofing nails because they won’t rust over time. When the tub is in place, install the baseboard and the molding in front of and around the tub.
Repair and finish off the drywall or tile that you cut in Step 3. If you’re installing a fiberglass bath surround, now’s the time to adhere it to the alcove.
Then, enjoy your tub! While all these steps might seem intimidating, removing and installing a new bathtub is a relatively easy DIY project that can be completed in a single day. And now, when you settle in for your next bubbly soak, you can enjoy your bath without the distraction of a tub in disrepair.
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